Cinque Terre

In the Cinque Terre, we stay in Riomaggiore, the most southeastern town of the five. Our hotel is an apartment, offering a glimpse into the local lifestyle. Its raw exterior hides its refined interior, a rare gem for us.

It is late when we check in. For dinner, we have facaccia and pizza. We walk down the main stone street towards the sea, feeling the unevenness through the soles of my shoes. The ruggedness and laws protected the Cinque Terra from over-development, preventing it from being an “all inclusive” resort for mass tourism. The locals carry on their casual lives, seemingly unaffected by tourism. They hang clothes, even the most intimate ones, outside the balconies like flags and yell conversations across the street in zeal. The air vibrates with energy, and the smell of delicious food creeps in everywhere.

We lie down on the rocks, listen to the waves, and watch the sun give way to the moon and stars. Mike can’t wait to dive right into the water. We drink the local wines and lemoncino, a wine made from lemon peels. In Cinque Terre, such small events yield great pleasures. Soon, darkness is everywhere. Liquors, sharp rocks, and steep stairs make a deadly cocktail, and it is a good thing that Victor accompanies me back to the hotel.

The next day, after facaccia in the morning, we hike up north. The 8 km hike takes us past all four towns: Manorola, Corniglia, Vernazza, and Monterosso, respectively. The path between Riomaggiorie and Manarola is easy as the path is paved with flat stone tiles. As we progress, however, the path becomes increasingly more difficult, and the heat from the relentless sun doesn’t help. When we arrive at each town, we sample the gelato and depart for the next. Every departure a conquest, every arrival a triumph.

The greatest challenge begins before the entrance of Corniglia; we climb up hundreds of steps up the hill into the town. From there lie even more difficulties as the path towards Vernazza and Monterosso becomes narrower, rockier, and steeper. Being inexperienced with hiking, wearing sneakers is a bad choice. Yet, hiking along the path up the hills is so rewarding; every step up gives a better view of the town we leave behind and intensifies the anticipation of the town we approach. Near the end of the path, we pass by beautifully manicured yet practical lemon farms and vineyards that appear to be suspended above the sea. Needless to say, the view of the shimmering sapphire sea is out of this world.

Finally, we arrive at Monterosso. There is a public beach, and being so hot and sweaty, I can’t wait to jump right in. I change and swim out towards the rocks just across the beach. Never in my life I swim so far from land, and at the rocks are sea urchins, so I watch my steps. We relax on the rocks, soothed by the sound of the waves, softness of the zephyr, and the warmth of the sun, and I do not want to return.

To celebrate our triumph over the land and the sea, we have an elaborate dinner. Seafood, naturally. I have a squid ink pasta with clams, crabs, and shrimps, and a peculiar crustacean called Bati Bati, something I have never seen or heard of before. The Bati Bati looks like a lobster tail, except the tail has eyes and mouth. It doesn’t matter what it is; the pasta is absolutely sumptuous.

Today, our last day, we return to Monterosso, but by train. Mike, Tommy, Vance, and I rent a paddleboat for an hour. We take turns paddling, but I enjoy being paddled and wash my feet in the seawater. Mike and Vance, being ever so daring, park the boat by a rock, climb up, and dive down. I have no courage to follow; as much as I like seafood, I have little intention of being one. We paddle further outward, far away from the rocky beach of Monterosso, and we relax, enjoying our time in the Mediterranean.

In the evening, we have dinner in a restaurant. Our table is in a patio facing the sea. I have seafood spaghetti, and we share wine.

We return to rocks at Riomaggiore for another night of star glazing. We meet many tourists, mostly from America.

The next morning, we return home. Our vacation in the Cinque Terre offers unexpected pleasures. A charming accommodation, delectable gastronomies, elevating hikes and swims, and, above all, a beautiful, underdeveloped surrounding make this area an ideal escape. The Cinque Terra is not so much a tourist destination as it is a lifestyle destination. There are no great buildings and monuments to be seen, just water and land; here, one relaxes and leaves the troubles of the world behind. It is a good thing that the ruggedness and the law prohibit development. Those that like Cinque Terre like it the way it is, and to me, it is paradise.